Sunday, February 27, 2011

I feel like Ms. Frizzle when I learn so much.

Quito is old.
Old, Old. 
Not like the US, with measly 200 year old history...

On Friday I visited a monastery built in 1625. En Serio. 
El Museo De San Diego is a monastery that has opened its art collection, and tours of its church to the public. It's incredibly beautiful- with more art, history and culture that I could possibly soak up in one afternoon. 
Our Culture of Ecuador class visited together with an Ecuadorian woman our professor knows as our guide. This woman could habla pretty rapido and had some definite connections... Let me put it this way, the secret room/burial chamber for deceased infants (language barrier?) behind the altar of the Monastery's church... access granted. We each ducked/climbed into this hidden room through a huge stone door that possibly weighed half a ton. It was an amazing afternoon.

Saturday I returned to Old Quito with my host family to visit a craft store (who knew yarn crafts of all kinds would connect the masses? This girl, that's who) and the City Cultural Center (a smaller, city run museum of what else... culture.) And later on returned to La Ronda (see previous post) for some late night, Euca fun. 

And now, for some pictures. (no lie- going to San Diego was a total surprise. The only pictures I have are in my mind. Invite me out for coffee when I'm back state side. I'll do my best to share.)
                                Three cheerful ladies I don't know. What a beautiful city!










I think this may have been the first picture I took on Saturday, also one of my favorites from last week. I love that you can see the Suda America (sans A here) building along side pretty typical colonial architecture. Not only that, but out onto the mountains, you can see how far the city stretches. I kind of love it here.














Sharon and I with our host mamas. Wow, I'm pretty much a giant. Fun fact, Ecuadorians typically don't smile in pictures. So no, Lilli, my host mama doesn't hate me... she's enhancing the culture experience. 

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

learning to love llamas and children that aren't mine.

Part of my time here in Quito is actually spent hugging orphans.
This is another one of those experiences that I know my words won't do justice.

As much as I'd love to paint a lovely picture of me as the pipe piper, with adorable children and I dancing in rolling meadows, encircled by llamas in the Ecuadorian countryside- that is not what my work at the orphanage looks like at all. It actually looks really different than I thought it would, and I wouldn't have it any other way.

I'm working out at For His Children- Ecuador (http://www.forhischildren-ecuador.org/fhcmain.php?pg=01) In the northern part of Quito. I take the crazy bus there (literally. please see my post on the Ecua buses.) and jump off on the high way and traverse a mountain side to get there. This sounds a bit more exaggerated than it really is, as I do all of the above every Monday and Wednesday.
 ...Fine, "traverse" may have been taking it a bit far....

For His Children is an amazing organization that does great work in the lives of the kids who live there. There are four houses for the kids, divided by age. One for babies, toddlers, and then two for school aged kids. Most, if not all, of the older kids at FHC are special needs in some way, and each present a unique challenge for the staff. Each house is staffed by Tias (spanish for Aunt) who function as "house moms" of sorts. They spend the most time with the kids are some really incredible women. I am so impressed by the level of care the kids recieve, and how happy each of them are. FHC is an incredibly joyful place that makes me feel alive in a real way.

Completely unrelated, but highly entertaining, is the orphanage's pet llama. It is the mangiest creature I have ever seen, and in miniature. Yep, a mini llama with dreadlocks serves as a "pet" to 40 or so kids.

My job at FHC is to simply help the Tias with what ever they ask in the Casa I'm assigned to that day. Sometimes, that means cleaning around the house, washing and folding laundry or taking kids from one house to another. This week, I worked in Casa Harlow. Casa Harlow is home to the oldest kids at FHC, all of them are high needs. I had a ton of fun! Jumping on trampolines, going for walks, playing on the swing set- it was great! In between all this warm, fuzzy, fun- a 12 year old girl named Adriana bit me. According to one of the Tias, it was because she was excited to see me. Awesome. I mean it.

In other news... I'm in love all-ri-ri-ri-riiight- with my crazy Quito life.... (just a lil' Ke$ha to keep it fresh.)

Saturday, February 19, 2011

tonight we're going hard...

I can't believe last night happened. To warm up, and to keep me on track- here are the highlights.
1. "dinner" with the "church ladies" at La Ronda.
2. Morocho Empanadas
3. ...four restruants later.
4. Karoke
5. Drugged out Argentinians.
(yeah, only a Ke$ha title could do this blog justice. & it's gonna be a long one, don't say I didn't warn you.)

     Lilli, my host mama told me she was going to out to dinner with some ladies from church for La Dia de Amistades (valentines day). Cool, perfect, told her to have a great time. Half way through the conversation, I realized I was invited. Perhaps that should have been my first indicator that this wasn't yo mommas girl's night out...
     Sharon and I met our host moms outside the youthworld office a little after six, to catch the Trole to La Ronda. Here is probably as a good a place as any to describe La Ronda. Its a two or three block area of old, historic Quito that is gorgeous. The colonial buildings are beautiful and the area is hoppin' with night life! Great resturants, bars and artesian shops line the curvy, pedestrian-only alley way. (if you're curious :http://www.suite101.com/content/la-ronda-street-in-old-town-quito-a56129) La Ronda is almost the end of the Trole line, but absolutely worth the wait (maybe not worth the Trole ride.) We got on an empty Trole at "La Y" and procured four seats! Having a seat during a trole ride is like going through the taco bell drive through and getting an extra crunch wrap supreme. It happens, but not often- and when it does its the best part of your day. All that to say, we had seats, front row seats to watch the Ecuas pile in. I watched one old lady get stuck between the open door and the wall of the stop as she exited the Trole. I'm pretty sure I saw a man get pick pocketed. And I saw countless instances of pushing, shoving and general barbaric-ness. If ever there was a time to employ the phrase, "two cats couldn't dance there" this is it. People were so smooshed together on that Trole, I'm shocked a window didn't break or a tire didn't blow. 
    That is just the build up, we arrived at the La Ronda at about 7:15 to meet with the other church ladies. There was about ten of us total, and new faces mean muchos besos. Once all of the group had assembled and touched faces, we start walking, I don't know where- it seemed aimless at first. When we stopped, a bit suddenly, outside of a stand selling morocho empanadas. Lilli asked if I wanted one, and I don't think I could have said no. I am glad I didnt! Morocho is a ground white corn, that covered in greasy empanada dough is excellent. Pretty sure those will be highly craved once I've returned stateside. 
    Apparently, empanadas aren't enough. We had to go to a full out Ecuadorian dinner. We went to one place, to find a 15 minute wait. In the course of 37 seconds we were 1.going to wait, and it was fine. 2. going to wait, but weren't happy then,. 3. absolutely not going to wait and leaving, stat. The next restaurant we found looked great, they had live music set up and a menu in English and Spanish. Again, about 45 seconds later- we had to leave, too expensive. Finally, we found another restaurant, for real this time, and sat down. Remember, La Ronda is colonial Spanish buildings, we had to duck around a narrow, winding, spiral staircase to the upstairs dining room in which myself and the other north americans couldn't stand up straight. I'm not kidding, the Ecuadorian family that was siting in the room starting giggling at us like we were uni-cycling, side show freaks. There was another,taller room, with an open table. Perfect, a little head room.
    Dinner was great, Chavo de Gallina (chicken and rice) with great ahi. Accopanied by Spanish music courtesy of two old men with guitars, and lots of dancing and singing from Melba, Lilli and all their friends. Followed by hot booze juice. Yep, here's where things really start to pick up. Melba, Sharon's host mom, told us about this hot juices that's popular at La Ronda, then she told us it had "just a little bit of alcohol." What really happens when you order this drink is that your juice comes accompanied by a Styrofoam cup of what smelled like rubbing alcohol. Sharon and I didn't order one, but Melba had us try hers. Wow. She didn't mix it, so I sipped straight hot booze. barf. 
    After dinner, we were tired, it was late- we think the night is winding down. Oh no, these gals can party. Off to the karaoke bar. Surprisingly less eventful then I had anticipated. Mostly people sang sad, slow songs and there was no stage. Gimme some feedback here, is that standard fare in the K-bar scene? We sipped our virgin Pina Coladas and listened to some truly dismal songs for almost two hours, when Lilli decided we had to go. They had just requested their songs and were next on the list, but she had enough... Not the craziest thing to happen that night. 
     Here's where I have to add things like, "sorry Mom- part of the adventure," I took the trole back from La Ronda with Sharon and the church ladies. I'm pretty sure I heard 359698354 times that you SHOULD NOT take the trole at night, oops. We waited fooorrreevvveerrr for the Trole to come, but not with out entertainment. It seems that "night" here warrants a convenience charge, the Trole is double at night, $.50. We all shrugged our shoulders and payed up, but a group of about a dozen young (about my age?) Argentian travelers were just not having it. Let me set the scene, there were about four girls among the rest of the all male group. It was apparent they had not washed their hair in about a week, or had some really terrible dreadlocks (I'm not here to judge, no body likes showering less than me.) One of these new friends had on great, 80s floral leggings as pants- which she dug into to retrieve money, among other things. And at least one of the men had a full out unibrown complete with a large necklace/chain constructed from the tabs of pop cans. Awesome. We heard sweet Argentian accents fight with the guards for about a half hour. (instead of yo tengo- it's sho tengo. wild.) Needles to say, Lilli and Melba were gettin' their mama on- pacin', furrowin' browns, crossin' arms- the whole shot. Trole came, we got home and called it night. A wild night.

needless to say, Ecuador is great. Hanging out this weekend, climbing Pinchincha was canceled, and Monday heading back to the orphanage. 
     

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

because walking isn't an option.

                Yet another reason to believe Harry Potter is more truth than fiction: the buses in Ecuador. The buses here remind me so much of the knight bus in the third Harry Potter book. The bus I took to school today had fuzzy, blue rearview mirrors and excellent 80’s music (think soft rock meets regeaton) and, I’m not sure why, but it seems that you always have to hurry on the bus. Not just put some pep in your step to catch the bus, but, jump-out-of-the-bus-at-your-stop-because-it-will-not-come-to-a-complete-stop. On each bus there is a man who calls out the stops and takes your money- he also hangs half way out the bus, trying to solicit business from the passerby. It really is like the Knight bus, with the money/yeller constantly shouting, “sigue, sigue, sigue no mas. Rapido!”  (continue, continue, keep going. Hurry up!) All this hurrying whilst the bus is being operated as though it is in a live action game of pin-ball. I equate it with surfing, which I’ve never actually done, the amount of balance needed to remain standing while the bus is in motion is quite a feat.  Granted, I have the balance of a one legged, fat man- but I try to hold my own. So that’s the bus. Despite all evidence to the contrary, it is completely inefficient and one of the most nerve-racking parts of my day.
                As if the bus weren’t enough, I have to take a trolley after the bus to get to Spanish school. I’ve been taking the trolley for the past two weeks, and it hasn’t been too bad. I wrote previously about our score keeping game, where every day we don’t get robbed the USA gets a point…. Well, today Ecuador got a half point; some old bitty slashed by book bag at some point during my commute.  Thank God, I still have my wallet and phone- I suppose I’m still pretty good at the game, since the thief wasn’t able to take anything. Yep, that’s my tale of an almost-armed robbery.  (Even cooler part of this story- my host mama, Lily walked with me to the tailor and I’m getting a sweet leather patch  to cover up the slash on the bag for $3. I am the height of Ecua cool.- it’s that not a huge exaggeration, I don’t know what is.)
                I’m sure I have other news, but the transportation stories will have to do for now. Flex-i-dor is the adventure of a life time. God is good, life is good, lovin’ livin’ it up in Quito!

Sunday, February 13, 2011

besos, comida, "chicles y coca"

First Sunday at Lili and Ivanhoe's- I'm bursting at the seams with cultural experiences. Living in a spanish speaking country has been a dream since I was 14. Now, after removing the rose-colored glasses, I'm really experiencing it! (that means i'm going to be myself here, and honestly report on the experience.)

ah, priemero- besos. I believe I've discussed this cultural phenomenon in the past, but here's a refresher. When you greet someone you give them a fake cheek kiss. Let me tell you, I touched cheeks with about 20 strangers today. barf.
la iglesia- spanish church, quite possibly the longest thing in the mundo. We got there at 10 and didn't leave until 1:30. I wish I was kidding. Interestingly enough, Lili and Ivanhoe go to a reformed church - and today's sermon was on the calvinist classic, election/predestination. Yep, just picture it... a two hour sermon on predestination, in spanish. : )
la comida- for lunch today Lili and her sister Melba (Sharon's host mama), made mexican food (?).  It was great, but totally different than mexican food in the states. Guacamole, sour cream(?), lettuce and tomatoe with what tasted like baked beans and ground beef. Sounds nuts, but tasted great (yes, I even had a little beef.)! Fun fact- the Ecuas eat tacos/burritos with a knife and fork. Another fun fact, not one ounce of kilol (bacteria killing solvent that makes fruits and veggies safe for the gringos) was used in preparation for this meal.
chicles y coca- yes, you read that right- gum and cocaine. I'm not sure how we got on this topic, but Lili and Melba were telling Sharon and I about the dangerous nightlife in La Mariscal (tourist neighborhood where my spanish school is.) Apparently, little kids and middle aged women sell drugs under the rather lame guise of "chicles, chicles, coca, chicles." They pretend to sell gum and candy- then slip in the cocaine. Fresh breath and controlled substances, is there a better pairing?

All in all, this has been a great two days. I am so excited to get to know Lili y Ivanhoe and their family more. I'm sure by the time homestays are wrapping up, my espanol will be mucho mejor!!!! As they say in Ecuador- hasta pronto!

Saturday, February 12, 2011

     I am way to too tired to give anything, in-depth or well detailed here. Please enjoy these small snipets of information, none of which will be remotely pedantic.
today is the day we all have been dreading. (in a nervous, sweaty palms, first day of junior high way.)
today was the start of homestays.
     Youthworld, the missions organization I am traveling with- has made connections with Ecuadorian families that are willing to host north american students. These are some of the kindest, most welcoming families I have met- and the family I am staying with is no exception. Lily y Ivanhoe are los padres and they have two daughters. One of them, Cristina lives next door with her husband and their son. The other is Gaby, who is 21 and lives down the block.
     We met our homestay families at 11 this morning at the Youthworld offices and then off we went. (That sentence was a nice way to skip over the sweaty palms, crying, freaking out, threatening bryan, etc.) Lily and Ivanhoe drove me back to their house with Melba, Lily's sister (Sharon's homestay mama.) When we arrived, I helped Lily make lunch, then it was time for more introductions. Jorge, Lily & Ivanhoe's nephew came over and we all went shopping for a dinosaur lamp for their grandson (Cristina's son, Mathias.)
     I am sure homestays will be great, but its definitely going to take a little getting used to, and a serious improvement of my spanish skills. I can't count the number of times i looked/sounded/acted like a total idiota today... pues lo es que lo es (well, it is what it is.)
**as promised photos coming soon.**

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

...you can be my Quito dream when you make ahí.

"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered." -Gilbert K. Chesterton 
"An adventure may be worn as a muddy spot or it may be worn as a proud insignia. It is the woman wearing it who makes it the one thing or the other." - Norma Shearer.
     I found both of these quotes over the past few days and I really love them. The Chesterton quote is so true of Ecuador. I've had to really learn to embrace "flex-a-dor." Case in point, "the baby place" we visited for an almuerzo two weeks ago has started closing every afternoon when we walk by. I asked why and the woman working told me they close everyday at 11 and don't reopen until 12:30. Firstly, I was impressed with my own spanish skills for having that conversation, but secondly- I simply couldn't believe the cultural difference there. In the states, a restaurant, or business- would not imagine closing for an hour and half each day, here it's commonplace. Mostly, I laugh it off- but its makes up a huge part of my Ecua-adventure. 
      Bad news for "the baby place" though, as the girls and I had the best lunch yet at a place a few blocZAks from our school. Arroz con pollo con tomato y aguacate (chicken and rice w/ tomato and avocado) SO GOOD! The ahí at this place was also unbelievable. We followed the whole meal with cafe con leche (coffee, or rather, nescafé- with warm milk and lots of sugar.) I could get used to this, no problem.
    
     The "adventure badge" I've been wearing most has been my spanish conversation skills. I'm loving living in what I find to be one of the most beautiful languages I've heard. Everyday is a challenge, but also a great learning opportunity. Today I had a conversation while waiting for the Trole with a man who works for El Ministerio de Educación (ministry of education.) He told me all about this job, his son and his opinion on international politics. I even understood most of it! It was amazing to hear his opinion on the US and how much freedom and wealth he thinks we have. I suppose this is where most people usually wax poetic with patriotism, but I'd rather here what you, my family and friends think about this man's statement- as I was taken aback by it. 


So for now, that's all. I'm loving life, and living quite the adventure. (oh, i'm hoping for a photo post soon.)

Saturday, February 5, 2011

on my love for the grocery store and giving coca light another chance.

     I know I preached of my utter disdain for coca-light- but today I thought perhaps I'd give it another chance. Knowing that there is nothing quite as refreshing as a fountain soda, today I toke the plunge an ordered a coca-light at McDonalds. It wasn't great, it wasn't even very good, but better than the bottled version....moving on-
     The past few days have been uneventful, of course I've tried some new foods, had some humbling language experiences, but all in all I feel like I'm falling into a routine here.  Life is good and easy for the moment in Quito. In leiu of trying to string together the experiences of the past three days, please read these as though you're enjoying the CNN ticker during Anderson Cooper 360 (how I miss that man.)

  • Thursday I met cute dog in the park, the owner was also pretty attractive. However, I too self conscious about my lack of language skills to approach said owner.
  • Almost everyday now, I visit the market on my way home from school. Santa Maria, is a little like Walt's- homey, full of old ladies and overall makes me very happy. My roommates find this profoundly funny and love to mock my grocery addiction. In my defense, it's not just Santa Maria that I like, there is also an open market next door, where you can bargain and practice Spanish. I got some of the best bananas I've had for 40 cents from a woman with three teeth AND some apparently expensive flowers for $2 bucks. (pictures to come.) Fun fact, the first woman I tried to buy the flowers from got lil peeved when I tried to buy the same flowers for a dollar. So peeved, that she rolled her eyes and walked away from me. Awesome.
  • Ecuadorian tamales are a touch on the nasty side. Slices of boiled egg and green olive in the side? No, gracias.
  • Fiora Vanti Soda has been the pride of Ecuador since 1868. Comes in strawberry, pineapple and apple flavor, yummm.
  • The other S.A.ers and I play a game everyday after we get off the trole. Current score- Ecuador 1, USA 9. That means one pick pocketing to 9 robbery-free rides. : ) 
  • Today was the "Turkey Bowl" at Alliance Academy, some of the S.A.ers played. The Youth World team won, and all of us left with some totally great tan lines. I should say burn lines. : )
  • After dinner tonight, we ran to the story for ice (for Sharon's sprained ankle from said Turkey Bowl.) Latin America isn't big on ice. Upside- store clerk was even cuter than the dog owner from the park. I can creep on this store from our living room window- excellente!
  • Today I bought string to make friendship bracelets, it was 98 cents per skein (?). Just an FYI- it's 10 cents a pop in the States. En Serio?

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

bruises,blisters and another almuerzo...

Another school day, getting up early, falling asleep while Mario drills spanish grammar into our cabezas...
and another almuerzo, those $1.50 lunch specials that are one of the biggest south american food gambles you can take. You may remember from my last post, "spanish class, salty snacks and a whole lotta walking", that my first almuerzo was quite the adventure. Today, the other S.A.ers and myself visited another small restaurant offering cheap eats and perhaps traveler's diarrhea (unfortunately the "baby place" from Monday was closed?) and ate soup, chicken, rice, mashed? potatoes and tang(the kool aide of Latin America.) Fun fact about Ecua soup-- it has chicken bones/cartilage/random parts of chicken anatomy in it. Skeeeetch, but tasty. Followed by rice with a little ahi- not too bad. This place can't hold a candle to moldy-paneling-cracked-glass-baby-tied-in-bouncy-chair-place... but it was still a ton of food for $1.50. I think between all seven of us we only found one hair and one little bug. Not too bad.

If that description isn't enough to turn your stomach, there's more. My feet have begun to rebel against me. From all of our walking I now have in total, 7 blisters between both. It's like stigmata of the feet. I was tempted to post pictures, but apparently that's gross? : ) Additionally, my killer bruise from zip lining is the nastiest, most unnatural, gray/green/purple I have ever seen.

Ecuador's still ballin' at about 70 and sunny- happy snow day, chicago!